Beginner Pet Lizard: Leopard Gecko
This tiny, brightly colored lizard is an excellent starter pet for anyone interested in reptiles.
A leopard gecko makes an excellent pet for many reasons. These colorful creatures are small, have minimal care requirements, and can be left alone for several days if necessary. They are also quiet, don’t smell, and don’t need a lot of attention. Leopard geckos are inexpensive and easily available from pet stores and breeders. These tiny reptiles are also popular because they do not require a large amount of space. Leopard geckos come in a wide variety of colors and pattern variations too.
Leopard geckos are lizards native to Pakistan, India and Afghanistan where the terrain is very dry and rocky. The geckos live on and under the ground and are nocturnal. A leopard gecko has a triangular head and a large tail where it stores fat. Its skin is very bumpy and heavily patterned; designed to help camouflage the gecko from predators.
The housing for a leopard gecko is pretty basic and inexpensive. It's best to have the materials you need for your gecko's new home, all set up before you bring him home. This will give you an opportunity make sure it is the correct temperature for him once he has arrived.
You will need an aquarium or terrarium with a screen top to prevent your gecko from escaping and help prevent any other pets from getting to your gecko. These can be purchased at any pet store. A 10-gallon tank should be more than sufficient for this tiny reptile. If you are going to have more than one gecko, the general rule is 10-gallons per gecko. So to house two geckos you'd need a 20-gallon tank, and so on. Here's what you'll need to go inside the tank to complete his new habitat:
Lamp - placed on one side of the tank for
light during the day. Because Leopard Geckos are nocturnal no
additional UV or basking lights are necessary.
Heat pad - placed on one side of the tank,
under the bottom of the glass. This creates a warm area and a
cool area for your gecko to regulate body temperature. Do not
use a heat rock. Your lizard may not know its too hot and can
get burned. Geckos need access to a moist area to aid in
Hide box - a place for him to shelter himself
during the day, as he is naturally a nocturnal creature.
(One box per leopard gecko if you are going to have
more than one)
- Water dish
- Food bowl
- Calcium bowl
Substrate- to cover the bottom of the
Young leopards (babies and juveniles)
should be kept on paper towels until they are 5-6 inches
long. Leopard geckos are very active feeders, and usually
end up ingesting some of the substrate in the process of
catching a cricket. Young leopard geckos have narrower
digestive systems than adults, and it is easier for their
system to become blocked or impacted if they consume the
Adults - (at last 5-6 inches long) can be
kept on sand, as their digestive tracks are capable of
handling the tiny bit of sand they may ingest when they
- Young leopards (babies and juveniles) should be kept on paper towels until they are 5-6 inches long. Leopard geckos are very active feeders, and usually end up ingesting some of the substrate in the process of catching a cricket. Young leopard geckos have narrower digestive systems than adults, and it is easier for their system to become blocked or impacted if they consume the sand.
- Decorations you want for the habitat - make sure anything you place in here (logs, rocks, etc.) are well anchored as you wouldn't want them to tip over or fall on your gecko and injure or kill him.
If housing more than one gecko, do not put more than one male per aquarium, as they will fight.
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Leopard geckos primarily eat insects. The most common insects available commercially are crickets, mealworms, superworms, wax worms and silk worms. If you use crickets and mealworms as the primary food and wax worms as treats, you will have a happy gecko.
Crickets - are a good source of food and nutrition in your leopard gecko’s diet. You should ”gut load” your crickets before feeding them to your gecko. “Gut loading” is making sure the crickets are well fed. This way they pass the maximum amount of nutrients to your gecko when he eats them. You can feed the crickets commercial cricket food and liquid or just use a piece of potato and some oats. Crickets are very resourceful and are sometimes difficult for the gecko to catch. If this is the case, you may have to remove the rear jumping legs of the crickets to make it easier for your gecko to catch. It is always a good idea to leave a small piece of potato, carrot, or apple for the crickets to eat. The food will also draw out the crickets and help make them easier to catch.
Mealworms and wax worms - Mealworms are another good food source for your gecko. Feeding your gecko mealworms is also a much easier task since they can be placed in a food bowl. The bowl must be smooth to prevent escape. This food is great because they are available whenever the gecko is hungry, without him having to catch them. Leopard geckos really enjoy wax worms, but the worms are too fatty to be a part of the main diet. Wax worms make excellent treats and are a good way to fatten up a female after she has laid eggs.
Supplementing the Diet
Vitamin and mineral supplements are an important part of your leopard gecko’s diet. Calcium is the most important mineral and should be available to your gecko at all times by placing a dish with calcium powder in the cage. The feeder insects should also be coated with calcium powder prior to feeding. For adult geckos coat the insects 1 to 2 times per week. For babies, juveniles, and breeding females coat the insects daily. Vitamins are also a necessary part of the gecko diet, but should be used sparingly and not on the same day as calcium. Feeder insects should be coated with vitamins once every 7 to 10 days. To coat the insects place them in a bag or cup with the vitamin or mineral powder. Shake the container around until all the insects are dusted with the powder.
Your leopard gecko needs water so make sure to keep a shallow dish with water in the cage. Water dishes tend to trap and drown crickets, wasting the insect and fouling the water. It is best to use a dish that is shallow in order to give the insect a better chance of escape. You should clean the dish every few days to help prevent bacteria and fungus from growing.
Cleaning your leopard gecko’s habitat is quick and easy. Their waste is dry and solid. Geckos are creatures of habit and defecate in the same spot. Use a small aquarium fish net or an old spoon to clean up the mess once or twice a week.
Your new gecko will provide hours of entertainment with minimal work. The most you'll have to give him is lots of love!